Magnificent Myanmar

Mingalabar from Myanmar (formerly known as Burma).  For the last month, Nick and I lost ourselves in one of the most magnificent countries that I have ever been to. Until about two years ago, Myanmar was extremely difficult to travel to.  Even now, I was a little intimidated by the hoops we had to jump through to get into the country. We had to have visas issued in advance. You must have a proven date of exit. We had to enter the the country with enough money to sustain our month there (ATMs were rumored to be few and far between). the only accepted money for exchange in Myanmar is U.S. dollar bills in IMMACULATE condition (no tears, folds, marks of any kind) issued in the year 2009 or later. I would imagine that these are the same challenges people face when traveling to the USA as well. But not something that I had ever experienced before.

That said, we found that the whole country has an air of the undiscovered, of the 'off the beaten track', of being forgotten in the past as the rest of the world moved into the future.  The charm of Myanmar is undeniable. A land of epic sunsets, majestic temples, breathtaking views, and unbelievably friendly locals.  We were smitten from day one. 

The following post is massive, but the things we saw and experienced were too beautiful to cut any part out. I hope that you enjoy this  glimpse into this country that stole our hearts.

I found that time and time again, Myanmar left me breathless, humbled, awestruck. This boat ride was one of those instances. We were speeding along the glassy water making our way to a village of crumbling Buddhist temples in western Myanmar. The only way to access it is by plane, then boat.

 

We had been in the boat for about 4 hours at that point, amazed by the drama of the fiery red setting sun and the dolphins dancing along side our boat. But there was this moment just after the sun sank below the horizon where it felt like our boat suddenly passed through the viel between worlds. The water turned to glass, mirroring the pastel colors of the sky above. The warm breeze smelled softly of flowers, spice, and smoke. I felt suspended between the earth and the sky, and for one moment, one infinite moment, I glimpsed heaven.

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Myanmar has that small town feel where you set foot onto the street and people are smiling at you, saying hello, brimming with curiosity about who you are and where you are from. For the month that we were in country we felt like celebrities. We traveled a lot by boat and were constantly surprised by the enthusiasm in which other boats and people from the shore would wave and call out in greeting to us as we passed. During a visit to a temple, we had a tour bus pull up next to us and we were rushed with people who lined up to have their pictures taken with us. It took us over 10 minutes to get our photos taken with all of them. Nick and I couldn't stop laughing. We will never be so famous again in our lives.


Within the first two days Nick bought several Longees (the Myanmese version of a sarong or a wrap skirt) and wore them for the rest of the trip. The locals LOVED this. He got high fives, thumbs ups, and even had some police men stop him for a photo. I swear people instantly liked him because he dressed like a local. However, wearing a longee is harder than it looks. It is all about getting it tied just right, and it is a common joke amongst Nick and the men about how big...or small...your knot is tied.
Let's talk for a moment about what I like to refer to as the longee incident. We were out in the remote Chin villages and spotted a group girls fetching water from the river. Nick, like a perfect gentleman,  offered to carry two of the silver pails back up to the village. He propped them on each hip, with a gaggle of giggling girls in tow, and proceeded to climb the hill up to the village. At the top of the hill he started to notice his longee knot was coming loose. With the heavy pails of water balanced precariously on his hips and gravity at work, there was nothing he could do to prevent the inevitable fall. So there he stood in bright blue boxers, with his longee around his ankles, a group of giggling girls, and me, like any good fiancee, catching it all on the GoPro as I burst into uncontrollable laughter. He became infamous and by the time we had walked to the next village, word had already spread far and wide of the foreigner whose longee fell off.

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The food in Myanmar is amazing! The country is so diverse with many different ethnic groups, and the food reflects this diversity. You can have curries in western Myanmar, coal fire grill fish in the south, steamed pork buns in the north, and variations of Shan noodle soup throughout the country (my personal favorite!). The spice level is perfect for my western palate. Be forewarned, there are bones in everything. Our motto 'Masticate with caution while in Myanmar'. Nick was not afraid to eat as the locals do. We got our fill of street food and sweet Myanmese tea from the local tea houses. Nick even tried deep fried grasshoppers (The big and juicy kind).

 


The U Pain bridge in Mandalay is the worlds longest teak wood bridge.  We traveled there with a Chinese friend, who told us the legend of the bridge. It is said that if two lovers walk hand in hand across the bridge and back, the fates will grant them eternal love. The sweetest treasure...I hope that you have/find yours too. 

Happy Holidays!

Bali Indonesia

 
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Hello from the beautiful land of Bali! I've always wanted to go to Indonesia, so this seemed like as good a place as any to start our travels. Bali is just 1 of 17,000 islands that comprise the whole of Indonesia. English is widely spoken on this small island but we've tried our best to pick up a few useful Indonesian phrases. Indonesia is the largest Muslim country in the world. Bali is primarily Hindu with a dash of Muslim, and it has been very cool to see the melding of religion with daily life. It seems that prayer is the center of life with every home having their own little temple. Offerings of flowers, rice and incense mark every doorway. This foreign land is colorful and beautiful to my western eyes. 

Life moves at a different pace here, and Nick and I are adjusting well to it. We wake up early and enjoy a quiet breakfast of tea and fried noodles with a fried egg on top. Then before the heat of the morning hits, we are on the streets, often wandering, exploring, and getting to know the world around us. Food is everywhere and we feel like we are constantly eating. Often our noses will lead us to a woman grilling corn with a spicy chilli-butter or a man fanning the coal of a low coconut husk fire that is cooking skewers of chicken saute slathered in a rich peanut sauce.

When the afternoon heat becomes unbearable, we head back to our hotel room for a rest. It is hot. And humid. And for two mountain kids like us, the heat has become our biggest nemesis. I'm sure that we'll get used to it, but for now, we lie low when the sun is at it hottest.

Our evenings, surprise surprise, consist of more eating. Nasi goreng, ayam goreng, babek, ayam sate. Some of our favorite local dishes. Almost everything is fried and we're loving it. And the juices...oh man! We have given up all other forms of liquid just so we can drink as much fresh fruit juice as possible! I think that my blood is at least 40% Mango juice right now. Hahaha. Life is good.


Flower seller at local market in Ubud

We need Change

Fish for sale

The Power of Juicing

One of the many Hindu offerings we found. Beautiful!

The local market meat section.

We spent about 2-3 weeks in Bali visiting the towns of Kuta, Sanur, Pandang Bai, Ubud, and Tulamben.

All the locals have been super friendly and helpful. It feels like Bali is a good introduction to Asia. It is fairly touristy with western amenities and comforts you could ask for, and easy to navigate once you're on the ground. We've seen almost no people begging for money. It seems like everyone has there own little business, even if it's just caring your luggage up a few stair, selling fruit on the side of the road, or offering a ride on their scooter.

We've tried to soak in as much culture as we can. We've visited temples, gone to local dance performances, took an amazing Balinese cooking class, learned about rice cultivation in the rice fields of Ubud, made friends with the kids at a local homestay.  The cooking class was particularly fun. Really amazing food and a great teacher! All in all Bali did not disappoint! 

The Bali Blender

Balinese Chicken Curry

Soup with garlic, chillies, and sauteed veggies

I'm not going to lie. I devoured all of this food and then went back for seconds :)

 

 

The Monkey Forest in Ubud was quite the adventure. Monkey's are funny little creatures with very expressive faces and mischievous minds. Honestly they totally freaked me out, but Nick let a few climb aboard and almost lost his sunglasses as a result. cheeky monkeys!!

Our Private bungalow in the middle of the rice paddies in ubud. one day way came home to the field being harvested. pretty cool process to see !

Scuba Selfie

The US Liberty Shipwreck in Tulamben Bali

There you have it. the time we spent on Bali has been pretty incredible. We are now certified to open water scuba dive. we took some great language and cooking courses. we have watched the clouds pass and the sun set. It is so amazing to travel the world with Nick. Everything I imagined and more. His love, support, and sense of humor keeps me going even when i am the sweaty, H-Angry kid in a hostel with no A/C and a cockroach infested bathroom.  Life is an adventure and I couldn't have asked for a better partner to share it with!

20 Hours of Darkness. A Night in Tokyo.

The travels of Nick and Adelaide have begun!

Throughout the next year we will be posting about all of our misadventures in this foreign land know as Asia. 

The journey from Sun Valley to Bali was anything but boring. 5 airports, 4 sub-par airplane meals, 20 hours of layovers, and two very tired but excited travelers. We arrived at the tokyo airport at midnight with a 14 hour Layover ahead of us. We caught the last Monorail into the city. Changing trains at random, following the ebb and flow of humanity. where we ended up I may never know. By this point we were going on 24 hours with no sleep. a blur of florescent lights. Men in suits. clean sidewalks and highrise buildings twinkling like the stars above. It was 2am and still the streets where teeming with people. we stumbled through the crowds with wide eyes and delirious minds. Following our noses, we found ourselves seated at this back alley noodle bar. 6 seats total. this ancient Japanese man slanging soup into the wee hours of the morning.  Oh and that heavenly udon. It was like an elixir of life for these two travelers.  I'm only sorry that I was too out of it to get a picture of this little soup oasis in the darkest part of the Tokyo night.

 

With hot soup in our bellies, we hunted for a taxi. Surprisingly at 3am there are very few taxi drivers who speak English in Tokyo and thus we were turned away time and time again. We knew we wanted to go to this legendary tuna auction, but didn't know how to say it in Japanese or where it was, or where we were for that matter. Finally nick, through a great amount of charades,  found us a taxi and we were off.

Much to our surprise, the driver brought us to the fish market, already a buzz with activity. It was 3am and we found there was a small line formed of diehard tuna efficiantos. By 4am over 120 people had arrived and those who didn't make the cut off were turned away. We were ushered into a small windowless room, packed together like sardines. Finally at 530am our wait was over and we were ushered into the auction. At the auction we ran into Mark Zuckerburg (a recent Enoteca customer), who consequently ended up at the same sushi restaurant we did two hours later. Did he follow us from Idaho? 

The auction was fast and fun. The sushi afterward was nothing short of perfection. Then as the first rays of sunshine hit the tokyo streets we made our way back to the airport. We were pretty proud of ourselves on the way back. Despite our transportation confusion only hours before we navigated back to the airport like locals.

The craziest part was from the time we left LAX to the time we saw those morning sun rays we had spent over 20 hours in darkness, in a perpetual night. They always say its darkest before the dawn. And so our adventures had begun.

Tokyo, we will meet again.